How to Tell Real Leather from Fake in 60 Seconds

Tan full-grain leather laptop briefcase with natural grain

Leather labels are designed to sound reassuring. "Genuine leather", "premium leather" and "vegan leather" all tell you less than you think. Here are six checks that take about a minute.

1. Read the label carefully

"Full-grain" is the top grade: the outer layer of the hide, left intact. "Top-grain" is sanded and usually coated. "Genuine leather" is a trade term that usually means a lower grade. "Bonded leather" is scraps glued together. "Vegan leather" or "PU" is plastic. If a listing doesn't say which, ask. More detail in our guide to full-grain vs top-grain vs genuine leather.

2. Look at the surface

Real full-grain leather shows pores, small marks, creases and variation in colour. A perfectly even, repeating pattern usually means the surface has been embossed onto corrected leather or plastic.

3. Check the edges

Look at a cut edge, on a strap or a flap. Real leather shows a fibrous edge, usually painted or burnished. A plastic layer over a fabric backing means it's not real leather.

4. Smell it

Real leather smells like leather. Synthetic materials smell of plastic or chemicals.

5. Press and bend it

Press a fingertip into real leather and it wrinkles slightly, then recovers. Bend it and it creases softly. Coated or synthetic material resists, or creases sharply and can crack.

6. Sense-check the price

A full-grain leather briefcase can't be made for €30. A very cheap "leather" bag is almost always a lower grade or not leather at all. But a high price doesn't prove quality either: part of what you pay for with a designer bag is the name on it.

Checking online

  • Zoom into close-up photos of the grain and the edges.
  • Look for an exact grade, not just "leather".
  • Check the returns policy, so you can inspect it properly at home.

What we do

Every Artisan Leather bag is full-grain leather, with no logo on the outside. We publish the specifications on each product page, and you have 30 days from delivery to return an unused bag if it isn't what you expected. Why our bags have no logo.

Shop all full-grain leather bags · Ships from Ireland · Free delivery over €100 to Ireland and the EU · 30-day returns

Run the six checks on ours. Every piece in the leather briefcases and laptop bags range is full-grain, including the brown leather messenger briefcase (€115) and the black leather laptop bag (€115).

About the author. John Bosco writes the Artisan Leather Journal — guides on choosing, carrying and caring for full-grain leather, written from the questions customers ask us most. Questions about a bag? Get in touch.